Early History


As we have already premised, Oceana was laid out in 1831, surveyed in 1838, united to Ottawa for municipal and judicial purposes in 1840, made an outlying district of White River Township in 1850, and Alex. S. Anderson was sent by the whole county for several years down to Grand Haven to look after the interests of the few straggling settlers along the beach at Claybanks, Stony Creek, Point Sable and Pentwater Lake. This lasted until 1855, when, on Febraury 18, an act was passed, organizing the county and the first three townships. Settlement commenced in 1849, at the end of which year there were but six or seven families in the county.

Taxes were collected until 1855, and sent to Grand Haven. At one time Moses Hopkins collected them. In 1855 the county was formed and in order to show the difficulties attendant upon the organization of the new county, we give the following account from the pen of Harvey Tower, the first county clerk and register:

"Just how our county machinery was put in motion, I presume very few ever heard. In February, 1855, the at to provide for the organization of Oceana, Mason and Manistee Counties was passed by the Legislature, and the first election of our county officers was held at Stony Creek (now Benona) on the first Monday of April following.

"The county convention nominated John Barr for sheriff, Amos R. Wheeler, treasurer, Harvey Tower county clerk and register of deeds. The remainder of the ticket is not remembered. Charles A. Rosevelt aspired to the office of sheriff, and Malcolm Campbell to that of clerk and register, and vigorously pushed their claims in that direction. But after a spirited election the whole of the regular teicket was elected. The act provded that when, by a certain day therin named, the clerk and register and treasurer-elect should file their oaths of office with each other, the official machinery of the county should begin to move, having a legal existance. In the last day of the time allowed for filing said oaths, the officers-elect, with several prominent citizens, met to consider the question whether, after all, it was nor better to remain attached to Ottawa for judicial purposes, as our taxes then were very light, then to incur the much greater expense of supporting a separate county organization; but as the people had expressed a desire to organize, by electing county officers, it was deemed best to perfect the organization.

"How the oath was to be administered was a question that seemed greatly to trouble some of the knowing ones anxious to avoid any error that would vitiate the proceedings, and insisting that 'the officers must be sworn in on the Bible.' But to those upon whom devolved the duty of qualifying, that day, there was a metter of greater concern than the manner of administering the oath, the nearest officer qualified to do that residing at White River, full fifteen miles distant, the only road being the sandy beach of Lake Michigan. Before a conclusion was reached, the clock numbered tqo p.m., and it took another hour at least to obtain horses for the journey. About three o'clock, Tower led off mounted on his elegant "Brutus," Wheeler closely following on his less showy, but more plucky "Old Rob." Arriving at White River, after some delay Justice J. D. Stebbins was found, who, going immediately to his office, administered the oath with great dignity. Meantime the horses had rested, and the officers, full fledged (save filing their oaths official) mounted their steeds for home, which they reached about ten minutes before 12 , - just time enough to file their papers before the time expired.

"To say that the rain fell in torrents, would give but a faint idea of the storm encountered on the home stretch of that romantic ride. I doubt if it ever rained harder since the time of Noah. The clothing of the riders was wet through, and water ran down, filling their boots and running over in streams. Arriving at Stony Creek, we found the fire fair-blazing and the vestment warm, and the new treasurer, after his first official act of filing the clerk's oath, came from an adjoining room with glass and decanter in hand, remarking as he appeared: 'Tower, I don't believe a good bourbon would hurt either of us.' What could Tower do but take a little? Ye teetotalers, say, say, ye severest, what would ye have done?"

The history of the county has not been an eventful one. It grew slowly until after the war, since which it has gradually gained in population. It passed through a serious crises in 1857-58, which almost brought matters to a stand-still. The county acted loyally during the war, and gave liberally, considering its population, in men and monty. We give a statement of its ware record in another place. In 1872 it got a railroad, which has greatly developed its resources. Since the advent of the railway; its prosperity has been rapid and sure. To-day, Oceana is rich and prosperous; in driving over it, one sees evidences of wealth and growth, and in the future there will be few richer counties in the state. She has, in the first place, great agricultural resources, even the sandy land being capable of successful cultivation. She is well watered, and high and rolling, - excellent for stock and for fruit raising. Her facilities for market by rail or water are unsurpassed. Pentwater harbor is one of the best on the lakes. Then in her fish there will be quite a source of revenue, while coal kilns bring in now much money. Altogether, the people of Oceana County have reason to feel proud of their heritage; a rich soil, a fine climate, fine forests of the best pine, crystal streams, and fine rolling fields of grain, and, above all, an enterprising and industrious population cannot fail to make a happy home for future generations.

We have given before a record of the chief municipal events, so that is unnecessary to recapitulate them. We now proceed to give some of the early history in the language of the pioneers themselves.

W. J. Haughey, of Golden, says that he came, in November, 1852, to visit his mother, then living on the Claybanks, when he arrived at Flower Creek, and found lodging at John Barr's for the first night. the Claybanks were old Indian clearings, where they used to plant corn, and had a grave-yard on J. Hanson's place. Some of the graves were covered with bark, with a sheet hung up inside, and tobacco, pipes, cranberries and other things placed at the head for the use of the dead. The occupation of the settlers at that time was confined to shingle making and fishing. Mr. Nash carried the mail o foot from Grand Haven to Manistee, and carried the mail in his pocket; a newspaper came in as often as once in three months. The settlers at this time were the Phillips family, Barrs Farrells, Haggertys, Hanlons, Simmons, R. E. Cater, L. Flood, and L. D. Eaton; A. S. Anderson was at Stony Creek, and Mr. Robar and wife.

Fishing at this time was done by seines and in the Fall, some times as many as 100 half-barrels being taken at a time. At this time there was no sending to states' prison for stealing pine, if there had there would have been few settler's left. One justice at White River used to fine the prisoners so much whisky and costs! There was no one living along the beach from Pentwater to Stony Creek, but there had been four houses built on Little Point Au Sable for making shingles. One, then, did not need to go into the woods to hunt deer, as they could be seen on the beach. there was old Indian clearing east of Stony Creek, on which there were a number of bearing peach trees. This was a little northeast of the George Murch place, and if one required peaches one had to find one's way in by compass, as there was no road.

It was in the Spring of 1853 that the first United States Marshall ever visited Claybanks, Bob Barr acting with him. As all had got their shingle bolts and shingles that they could ready for shipment, and few, if any, owned the land the timber was cut on, there was a rich haul to Mr. United States Marshal. One sharp old settler, Farrell, got wind of the trick, and went to the land office, securing a deed for his land, saving his stuff, but the marshal got the most of the stuff seized, leaving the inhabitants so por that they were glad to load vessels at twelve and a half cents per hour. But it taught the old heads a trick, - they must buy forty acres and cut all around it. But there were some who did not think things should go so easy, so there was a fire one night that consumed 200 cords of bolts. Was this spontaneous combustion? The old trader, Woodruff Chapon, came in at this time in the old ship "War Hoss," with cheap provisions. Mr. Haughey thinks it is safe to say that Dr. Phillips and son and A. C. Haggerty were the first farmers in the county. Then followed John Fordham, A. S. Anderson, R. E. Cater and J. O'Hanlon. He claims to have himself imported the first apple trees that bore fruit. In 1852 he brought a peck of the best Eastern peach stones, and they were planted by O'Hanlon, in Claybanks. In 1855 settlers began to move north to Sable, or Leroy, as it was called, but still did not think the county to be worth much, agriculturally. These settlers were L. D. Eaton, H. Tower, J. Simmons, E. Rich, of Barry County, M. Tyson, P. Benson, W. Olender, and L. Curtis. In the Spring of 1856 the first settlers east of Little Point came to Oakland. These were A. C. Randall, John Mettis and George Weixler.

For a time the settlers should be called the east and west settlers, the former seeking pine, the latter farms. The western men got up at this time, in 1858, a petition for a road running twelve miles east and west to accommodate those that were looking for land for settlement. H. Hartman and Mr. Haughey at this time went into what is now Golden, looking up pine. J. Barnhart moved to Round Lake; A. Pringle and A. F. Bemis settled near by. As there was now a county and townships, there were needed a graveyard and a jail, - the latter first, as a Mr. Green had been shot. Two men had been stopping at Green's house, and next day he was found dead in the woods, with a bullet hole through him. The wife and the two men were arrested and kept at L.D. Eaton's house, as he was sheriff, but they were discharged. C.A. Rosevelt wanted a jail, and so one was built at Whisky Creek, and as there were no prisoners, Andrew Rector was sent up by Squire Dexter for ninety-nine years, for shooting a hog.

Among the new settlers that came to Claybanks was George Stewart, who lived in a house in the hollow, with a small creek running under it. He opened a kind of restaurant, selling whisky, etc. In the Fall of the year he laid in a stock of one barrel, and in the course of the Winter sold out five barrels and had two barrels left in the Spring, and as the people were foolish enough to suppose the creek had something to do with it, it got the name of Whisky Creek.

The old settlers well recollect of Euchre Bill, who lived in the Dutch settlement (called Craw Wingle), who went out hunting, with rifle and compass, but never returned. The neighbors turned out and searched for him in vain.

The first grand celebration on the Fourth of July at Point Au Sable was in 1858, - H. Tower, orator, along with B. Williams, J. Mills and H. Hoffman.

Asa M. Pringle left Port Huron, arriving in Pentwater, May 1, 1853, and soon took up a farm in Golden, which he still owns, although he now makes his home in Missouri. It took him a day and a half to go from Pentwater to his place, - seven miles distant.

Among the other early settlers, may be mentioned James O'Hanlon, of Claybanks, who came in September, 1849, and his wife, whose maiden name was Maria Golden, afterward Mrs. Haughey, came in 1852. Owen Farrell and wife came to Claybanks in 1852, the former meeting his death by accident in 1868. Andrew Brady came with his parents from Norway to White River in 1850, and lived for months on potatoes and salt alone, until Andrew exchanged a shot gun with an Indian for a deer. In 1856 he took up land on Section 3. B. Haggerty landed November 12, 1855. Marvin B. Lillie also came to Claybanks in 1861.

Mrs. O. L. Byrne, of Claybanks, came to Oceana, April 16, 1842, there being five in her family, who lived in an Indian shanty until a house was erected. They settled on the place now owned by R. E. Cater, her husband's name being Chauncey Clements. She was the only white woman in the county until Mrs. Dr. Phillips, with her family, came in.

James Ginus, of Benona, came to this county in December, 1855, living near what is called the old Salt Spring, close to the Muskegon County line. In March following he went to Claybanks, engaging in lumbering with Dr. T. Phillips until June, 1857, when he bought 240 acres from Mr. Stephens, not so much for the land as for the material it afforded for bolts and shingles. The place is now Blackberry Ridge, and the postoffice is only twenty rods from the old house, which was built November, 1850. In 1858, notwithstanding that he took off 2,000 cords of pine, he lost so that he was $2,000 in debt, which he has been fortunate enough to liquidate.

John D. Brookshes, of Pentwater, gives his experience as follows: "I landed in Pentwater in September, 1855, and began work for C. Mears, an dhave made my home here ever since. The entire section was then an unbroken wilderness. Cobb & Rector had a little sawmill on the site now occupied by the Pentwater Lumber Company; there were two small houses already built. I understood Cobb & Rector had been here two years. Mears had just begun his mill, and I worked on that and helped to pile slabs on the edge of the present channel. The old channel ran back of where H. C. Flagg's house now stands, through the little pond near the bluffs, and so on to Lake Michigan. The old channel was soon dammed up by Mr. Mears, and the present channel was not more than two feet wide and two or three inches deep.

"There were at this time no settlers in the woods back from the shore. Messrs. Harding and Glover took contracts from Mr. Mears in the Fall of 1855 for putting in logs. Mrs. Cobb and Mrs. Leraux were the only women here. Robert McAllister and Jacob Schrumpf worked for Mears next Spring.

"It was difficult to get from Mear's to Cobb & Rector's for some time, on account of the water. I have seen the water so high in Cobb & Rector's mill that they could not saw.

"I have been sorry I did not take Cobb & Rector's offer to sell me twenty-five acres where the village of Pentwater now stands, for one dollar an acre, and more at the same price, but I could not see money in their stripped pine land, and so bought forty acres in Hart, at seventy-five cents an acre."

In 1862 he enlisted and was gone three years, and returning has been mainly engaged in farming and fruit raising.

J. R. Mooney, who came in 1858, claims to have put up the first frame building in Hart, in 1860. In 1861, he built the first house in Pentwater, east of Hancock Street, and in 1862 erected the first tavern, the Walrath House.

A. F. Bemis landed in Pentwater, April 8, 1858; H. Webb, Jr., arriving the same month.

A. Huston started November 16, 1852, with his family of eight persons, from Maine, and arrived on the 22nd in Grand Haven, and engaged to lumber in Otto, for Rev. Mr. Ferry; proceeded to the Salt Springs, and built shanties. He then returned to White River for his family, and continued lumbering until 1855, when he located the land he now lives on. He says all the settlers in what is now Claybanks, were, in 1855: J. Fordham, J. Barr, Dr. Phillips, O. Farrell, A. Haggerty, M. McGulpin, J. Smith, J. Cody and A. Brady. There was not then a road in the township, and Mr. Huston helped lay out the first, which he thinks was the first in the county. The first school was taught in 1855-56, by A. A. Lillie.

"Medard Leraux, Esq., came to this shore in September, 1850, and after residing for five years in the place now known as Lincoln, came to Pentwater in May, 1855, and has resided in this vicinity ever since.

"From what he has been told, Mr. Mears began to buy land in this vicinity in 1853, and Cobb & Rector at about the same time. In 1854 the first mill of Cobb & Rector was burned. the oldest building now standing in Pentwater is used as a kitchen in the rear of Mears' boarding house. It was built in 1855. the little dwelling house on Second Street, almost across the way from the office of the Pentwater Lumber Company, was also built at about the same time.

"Mr. Leraux helped build the mill of Mr. Mears in 1855. The wolves at this time were quite numerous, and would chase deer down on the bluffs. Men would then go and frighten them away, and take possession of their prey. The howling of the wolves at night was most dismal.

"The channel at this time was so shallow that Mr. Leraux and his wife have frequently crossed it barefoot, when going down the beach.

"In November, 1856, he made a settlement where Christian Jorgensen now lives, the last dwelling house this side of Pentwater River. In 1857, the Indians traded their lands near Grand Rapids for lands in Oceana County, and Mr. Leraux used to turn many an honest penny by ferrying them across the river near where the bridge is at the present time.

"At this time game was very plenty, and fish could easily be obtained in great abundance, so that there was no lack of food, although communication with the outside world was very difficult and irregular. In this sma year, 1857, the first bridge was built across Pentwater River, and the mail was carried by this route instead of the beach. The nearest postoffice was now at 'Randall's,' whereas it had been at White River for several years previous.

"Mr. William Jennings remembers how in the early days Cobb & Rector tried to sell him village property at figures which would be considered very low now, but which he didn't feel inclined to jump at, then. James S. Post he believes to be the first man who bought of Cobb & Rector a village lot. Moses White also bought a part of a lot at one shilling a foot, a price which was considered perfectly exorbitant.

"Mr. Jennings took a homestead on the north branch of Pentwater River, a little beyond where Mr. Weaver now lives, and went onto his land without a cent in his pocket, but with a heart full of courage. His stove was carried on his back three miles through the woods, and this was not the worst of it; he lost his way, and laid out with his stove all night. His supplies and the boards for his shanty were all carried to his place in the same laborious way. He buried his supplies until he had completed his little building, and long before this was accomplished the skin was all worn from his shoulders. Soon after he had satisfactorily finished the job, he noticed that a neighboring tree looked rather threatening, and on his attempting to cut it down, it gave another practical example of the total depravity of inanimate things by falling directly across his cabin, knocking everything into the direst confusion. Disgusted, he turned his back on the wreck and started off, feeling, to use his own words, that this was a 'h--l of a country,' but after he had gone a half a mile, he cooled down a bit and went back. Every attempt that he made to improve his condition while he remained in this location seemed equally unfortunate. He went South and bough six yearlings, giving Charles Dumaw one for helping him ferry them across the river, but in less than a year he had lost every one. He bought a yoke of cattle, and the second day after he got them home, he found the best one drowned in a creek. He kept the other for some time but at last he also disappeared, and at last was found mired in a bog. Mr. Jennings thinks he must have been there nearly a week, but they finally got him out, and although there was apparantly nothing left of him but skin and bone, he at last got well. The very first thing the old fellow did after he was allowed to go at large, was to lose himself again, or, as Mr. Quevillon said, go to 'hunt for frogs,' and Mr. Jennings at last had to give him up.

"Such continual misfortune was rather discouraging, but at last Mr. Jennings succeeded in disposing of his land, and joyfully bade adieu to the black flies and mosquitoes, which had been his only visitants, and went a few miles further south, where he found a more desirable location, and bout 160 acres of land at 50 cents an acre, on which he now resides. We might mention that the last stroke of ill luck which befell Mr. Jennings was in crossing the river, where he managed to fall off an overhanging tree, and got a thorough wetting, but once on the other side he struck into the tide of prosperity, and is now one of the most respected citizens of the township in which he resides."

In 1861, when Newfield was almost an unbroken wilderness, the McGill family camped the first night under the shade of a tree on their farm, and next morning one of the family cast his eyes to the top of a tall tree with a limb broken off near the top, and discovered the head of a bear looking out of a hollow in the tree. They cut the tree down and killed his bearship with an axe. There was bear meat for breakfast that morning. They tanned the big hide, and used a portion of it for years as a chair cover.

As illustrative of the early hardships the new settlers had to undergo, we may mention that on February 28, 1853, Woodruff Chapin put out of Stony Creek with a little yawl, bounf for Grand Haven, to get supplies to keep Mr. Wheeler and himself with the men at the settlement from starving. Rev. Mr. Ferry had thought that he had left sufficient to support the party during the Winter, but "some one had blundered." and Chapin had to get the food or perish in the attempt. After a hazardous voyage along the ice banks on a lonely and unknown coast, in the dead of Winter, he reached the Haven, laid in provisions and started, but on his way he was forced by a strong headwind to draw up his boat on the ice, discharge and pack the cargo, and sleep in the woods for a day and a night, before the wind fell.

John Hanson, on the Claybanks, in the early days placed a hydraulic ram to raise water to his house and stable, but Indians passing heard its clicking, and regarding it with superstition, chopped it all to pieces with their hatchets.

Anson Freeman, the first settler in Colfax, did not come until 1863. Hazen Leavitt, the first in Leavitt, did not come in until the following year.